There is something deeply satisfying about watching America roll past your window at a relaxed pace. No airport lines. No middle seats. No turbulence. Just the open country unfolding mile after mile.
That is exactly what Amtrak’s California Zephyr delivers and it does it on a grand scale. At 2,438 miles, this is one of the longest passenger train routes in the United States, running from Chicago all the way to the San Francisco Bay Area. The full journey takes about 51 hours.
The United States has nearly 140,000 miles of track, more than any other country in the world, according to the Association of American Railroads. But the California Zephyr stands apart. It passes through the heart of the Rocky Mountains, crosses the Sierra Nevada, and covers roughly two-thirds of the country. Dramatic stretches like Gore Canyon, Ruby Canyon, and Donner Pass make it one of the most visually stunning rides you can take in America.
What to Know Before You Board
There is no Wi-Fi on the train, so bring a personal hotspot if you need to stay connected. For a more comfortable journey, private sleeper cars are available. These include private roomettes and bedrooms, and depending on your fare, you may get complimentary meals in the dining car and access to lounges at major stations.
The train makes several key stops along the way. Each one is worth knowing about, especially if you want to break the trip into smaller pieces.
Chicago: Where the Journey Begins
The California Zephyr departs from Chicago’s Union Station. If you are flying in a day early, a smart idea, the city gives you plenty to do. Architecture tours along the Chicago River offer a wonderful look at landmarks like Willis Tower. Millennium Park’s Cloud Gate is unmissable. And the Art Institute of Chicago is home to Grant Wood’s iconic painting “American Gothic.”
For a hotel close to Union Station, the Renaissance Chicago Downtown Hotel is less than a 30-minute walk away. History buffs may enjoy the Palmer House, which claims to be the birthplace of the brownie. For dinner, Gene & Georgetti has been serving oversized steaks since 1941. Joy Yee’s Noodle Shop in Chinatown has been a neighborhood staple for decades and was among the first restaurants in the Midwest to serve Taiwanese-style bubble tea.
Denver: A Natural Overnight Stop
Denver sits exactly 5,280 feet above sea level, the famous Mile High City. The California Zephyr stops here, making it a natural place to spend the night and split up the 51-hour journey. Denver’s Union Station is a beautiful 1914 beaux arts building that has been reimagined as a lively gathering spot with restaurants, bars, and shops.
The Crawford Hotel sits right inside Union Station, with rooms designed to evoke the golden age of train travel, some even styled like vintage Pullman cars. Outside the station, Denver has more than 150 breweries spread across its metro area, with several clustered in the River North Art District. If you extend your stay, Red Rocks Park & Amphitheatre sits about 15 miles from downtown and is well worth the short drive.
Salt Lake City: Mountains and a Remarkable Lake
Tucked between the Wasatch Mountains and the Great Salt Lake, Salt Lake City makes another excellent overnight stop. The lake itself is about half an hour from downtown and is one of the largest and saltiest inland bodies of water in the entire Western Hemisphere.
The Grand America Hotel and the Kimpton Hotel Monaco both offer a boutique feel in the heart of downtown. Temple Square, a five-block complex in the city center, features well-kept gardens and notable architecture. The Natural History Museum of Utah holds the world’s largest display of horned dinosaur skulls. For dinner, Red Iguana is known for enchiladas covered in house-made mole sauces. Takashi is the city’s go-to spot for sushi.
Sacramento: Farm-Fresh Food and Gold Rush History
California’s capital city is surrounded by 1.5 million acres of farms and ranches, which makes it one of the best farm-to-table dining destinations in the country. It is a great overnight stop before the final push to San Francisco.
History lovers will want to visit the California State Railroad Museum, where restored locomotives are on display. The Sacramento History Museum offers underground tours of streets that were abandoned when the city raised its buildings to prevent flooding. On the food side, The Kitchen was Sacramento’s first restaurant to earn a Michelin star. Localis, also Michelin-starred, is particularly welcoming to vegetarian diners.
San Francisco: The Final Destination
The train technically ends in Emeryville, a small city in the Bay Area. But Amtrak runs a connecting bus service straight into San Francisco, so the city is well within reach. San Francisco spans less than 50 square miles on a peninsula, yet it packs in Victorian homes, steep streets, cable cars, and some of the most recognizable sights in the country.
Walking or biking across the Golden Gate Bridge is as rewarding as it sounds. Alcatraz Island is another iconic stop, the historic cellhouse there is managed by the National Park Service. For food, Chinatown offers excellent dim sum, and the Mission District is home to taquerias serving jumbo Mission-style burritos. Boudin Sourdough on Fisherman’s Wharf serves its famous clam chowder in sourdough bread bowls. And Benu was among the first restaurants in the city to earn three Michelin stars.
The Best Season to Ride
Every season brings a different version of the journey. Winter gives you the sharpest views of snowcapped peaks in both the Rockies and the Sierra Nevada. Spring brings wildflowers blooming along the Bonneville Shoreline near Salt Lake City. But if you want the most daylight hours to watch the countryside go by, summer is the best time to board the California Zephyr.
Whatever season you choose, this is a trip worth taking. Few experiences let you see this much of America in such comfort and at such a magnificent, unhurried pace.